Round Arran, and on to the Mull of Kintyre

After our visitors left we spent another day in Largs - there was a mysterious Pencil Monument on the sea front that commemorated that well known Battle of Largs on 2nd October 1263 between Norway and Scotland.  Apparently the result was inconclusive!

The OK Dinghy World Championships were being held at Largs, this is clearly a well supported event and there were loads of OK's making their way to the far side of Cumbrae, naturally dodging a Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry on their way!

The next day the sun came out again and it was time to leave.  We has so far only seen the Isle of Arran under a cloud, so it was time to give it another chance - this time we were going to overnight on a mooring in Loch Ranza on Arran.

Past the Cumbrae Islands - by now there was no wind, Motor Sailing was the only option so we capitulated and headed for Arran under engine.

A typical small fishing boat, surrounded by gulls, off the Cumbrae Islands.

There was an up-side to the motoring, and we saw dozens of porpoises  in the Firth of Clyde as we headed for Arran.  We did also see a basking shark, but it was too far away for a decent photo.

We reached Loch Ranza mid afternoon in plenty of  time to break out the dinghy and go ashore - we had heard that there was a Whisky Distillery there, so a visit was required:

Loch Ranza (Etoile 2nd moored boat from left)

The Isle of Arran exceeded our expectations: 

Deer are used to mow the golf course - players have to work round them!

Sheep to mow the Football Pitches - no footballers in sight today, maybe waiting for the sheep to move on first?

Arran Distillery, complete with excellent visitor's centre and set in rather spectacular surroundings.

As we have come to expect, Loch Ranza has a castle

Not sure if this boat is waiting for the next high tide, or this is just the low cost boat park but it didn't look the most convenient place to store a yacht, even a small one!

Another Scottish Sunset, seen from Loch Ranza

On night on a swinging mooring was enough for us, we set off the next morning in search of a pontoon and shower block - having missed out the Mull of Kintyre by going through the Crinan Canal we headed south for Campbeltown. 

The 30 nm trip took about 5 hours, with about 5 changes of wind direction.  A broad reach: spinnaker up, changed to a beat, spinnaker down - repeat, several times!

We came along side the single pontoon - another lovely setting.

Campbeltown, Mull of Kintyre

The usual fishing fleet alongside the harbour wall.

And a rather more unusual yacht 

Campbeltown Harbour is almost land locked, the entrance guarded by the Island of Davaar which can be walked to along a tiday causeway - the island is small enough to walk round and we were told there was a cave painting to see, so off we went.

 Zilla leads the way to Davaar Island



Davaar Island on left, Ailsa Craig Island in distance, a volcanic plug that rises 337 metres out of the sea and stands  in isolation at the southern end of the Firth of Clyde

The tide mark along the causeway was literally covered in jellyfish - apparently they have no predators or scavengers so dead ones just get washed up on the pebbles.

The walk round the island was brilliant -

We found the Cave Painting - The Crucifixion - painted in secret in 1887 by Archibald McKinnon, a local art teacher.  The story goes that he had a dream that told him where to paint, and in order to reach it he had  to lash a paintbrush to his walking stick to do the work. The painting has been maintained by subsequent art teachers from the local school.

We continued round the island, and saw the little animal below - a mink.  Cute, but not desirable!

Davaar Lighthouse

The following day we set off for Troon, passing Davaar Island for the last time.



We had very mixed sailing conditions - initially 15 kts behind us, which suddenly stopped as we left the land behind.  We struggled to find wind for a few hours, then just as we got near Troon the wind picked up and we finally had decent sailing conditions - we decided to go on past Troon and head back to Ardrossan, where we had met Geoff and Mark, a further 8 nm along the coast. 

Next Stop:  Inverkip - to meet Mike and Taryn

We Have Visitors! Ardrossan, Port Bannatyne and Largs

We sailed from Tarbert under a beautiful blue sky in 10 kts of wind, which gradually died and we had to act like the majority of the Cruising Community over here and motor sail.  The flat conditions made the porpoises easier to see, but it was a very uneventful 30 miles from Tarbert to Ardrossan.

Ardrossan is a huge harbour, in the 17 and 1800's Ardrossan became an important port for the export of coal and pig iron to the Americas and Europe.  The harbour is 5m deep on a low water spring so no chance of running aground here! It was also a ship building port at one time.

Ardrossan Harbour - Visitors Pontoon far left - we asked to move to the 'for sale' pontoon as it was much nearer the showers.


Naturally it has a Castle - dating back to 1140 - infamous for  'Wallace's Larder' when William Wallace lured the English out of the Castle and slaughtered them, apparently tossing the bodies into the dungeon!  Later seized by Cromwell, who dismantled most of it in order to build a fort in Ayr. 

While in Ardrossan, we had a visit from more friends from Jordan - Jan, Eleanor and Tara plus baby Aden.  There only seemed to be one restaurant anywhere near the Marina and fortunately it was a very nice one.  We caught up for a few hours, and then went back to the boat to await our next visitors:



Team Etoile

Mark and Geoff arrived in shorts in the pouring rain - we sheltered in the restaurant as long as we could, then made a dash for the boat.  No one comes to Scotland for the weather.

Luckily, the next day dawned sunny and very suitable for sailing, so after a group hug we set off to Port Bannatyne the long way.

We went inside the Cumbrae Islands in the hope of seeing some wildlife:  we were not disappointed.

There were seals blending with the rocks



Gannets walking on water

And lots of Manx Shearwaters generally panicking at our arrival.

We practised tacking up East Kyle, on the East of the Isle of Bute.  The charts showed a very narrow channel between the Burnt Island Rocks off the North of Bute so we went to check it out.  While we were there the Waverley Paddle Steamer came through the channel.  The 73m (17.5m beam) Waverley was built in 1947 and is the last sea going passenger carrying paddle steamer in the world, and it now travels a variety of tourist routes in the Clyde.

The Waverley firmly declares itself to be 'restricted in its ability to manoevre'.

Geoff has a quick power nap after all the excitement:

We turned round, hoisted the spinnaker and headed back down East Kyle towards our chosen destination of Port Bannatyne.

The Foredeck Crew congratulate themselves on a perfect spinnaker hoist.

The 'Welcome Anchorages' booklet describes Port Bannatyne as 'a port of call not to be missed ... ' shore facilities alledgedly include shops with essential groceries , 'coffees to die for' and with Pubs and restaurants offering local seafood.  Well - we should know after Mallaig not to believe all you read.  Suffice it to say that although the port was very beautiful, we took a taxi to Rothesay for dinner and there was not so much as a coffee bean to be found in Port Bannatyne.

Historically Port Bannatyne played an important part in World War II as the practice area for the X class mini subs that sank the Tirpitz. This waterway is still a major practice area for submarines and we are constantly on the look out for them as well as marine mammals

Port Bannatyne

Views to die for, not coffee!

Our journey on Sunday was to take us to Troon, again we took the long route.  This time we were going all the way round the Isle of Bute, down Bute Sound  to Arran and then across the Firth of Clyde to Troon back on the mainland.

The Narrows were rather narrow - we furled the headsail and motored through rather than try to tack in the channel.

The wind gradually built, as did the clouds, and by the time we reached Arran it was a steady 27kt breeze, gusting 30. 



Clouds over Arran.

By the time we reached Troon it was not the weather for taking photos.  On the positive, Troon really did have coffees to die for, and a full dinner menu to go with it - we had a great evening in Scott's restaurant / bar before heading back to the boat in the rain.

We held no real hopes for the weather on Monday.  Initially it lived up to our expectations but after a huge Scottish Breakfast (George Foreman and Oven needed) the sun came out  so we left Troon and set off for Largs - dodging yet another Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry that seem to be in perpetual motion between every rock in the Clyde.

The wind gradually died down, we went between Little Cumbrae and Great Cumbrae in search of marine mammals and submarines  - none to be found this time, and headed for Largs, the mecca of Scottish Sailing.

It was hard to believe it was the same day by the time we got to the Cumbrae Islands.

Zilla assists and plans to do "Day Skipper" when she gets back home

Time for a quick G & T before the travellers have to leave.

Largs Yacht Haven - 750 berths on pontoons.  Bicycles needed to get to the showers!

Maybe we do go to Scotland for the Weather!

Sunset - through the harbour breakwaters and looking towards Cumbrae.

So - a great time was had by all, and now time to start planning again ...